Paris & Bordeaux Itinerary

Itinerary:

Day 1

Brunch @ Carette
Explore Le Marais area & checkin to Airbnb
Notre Dame
Happy hour @ Nelson’s
Dinner @ Loup
Drinks @ Hotel Costes

Day 2

Espresso & Macaroons @ Pierre Hermes
Walk through Tularies Garden
Lunch @ Monsieur Bleu
Walk to Eiffel Tower
Champs de Mars
Arc de Triomphe en route to Champs-Elysees
Dinner @ Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond
Drinks @ Little Red Door

Day 3

Half day at Louvre
Brunch @ Cafe Marly
Photos @ Palais-Royal
Shopping nearby
Dinner @ Brasserie Dubillot
Eiffel Tower after dark

Day 4

Train to Reims
Tasting & tour @ Mason Ruinart
Lunch @ Les Jardin des Crayeres
Tasting @ Pommery
Train back to Paris
Explore Le Marais
Dinner @ L’as du Falafel
Eiffel Tower after dark (this time with wine)

Day 5

Train to Versailles
Palace of Versailles and Gardens tour
Snack @ Angelina (in palace)
Train back to Paris
Drinks @ Cafe de Flore
Shopping in St. Germain (Le Bon Marche)
Dinner @ Le Grand Vefour

Day 6

Train to Bordeaux
Check in to Airbnb
Brunch @ Les Sauvages
Explore city, public garden, and old town
Drinks @ Books & Coffee
Dinner @ Le 7

Day 7

Train to Saint-Emilion
Pastry & aperol @ Cordelier
Explore town
Lunch @ L’envers du Decor
Pick up bikes at tourist center
Chateau Cantanac wine tasting & tour
Bike through vineyards
Train to Bordeaux
Dinner @ Michel’s

Day 8

Train to Paris
Check into Hotel Basss in Montmartre
Explore Montmartre
Brunch @ Breizh Cafe
Shopping at CityPharma (skincare!)
COVID tests 24-hour before flight
Eiffel Tower golden hour
Dinner @ Chez Janou

Where We Stayed:

Le Marais (6 nights) – we stayed in a quaint Airbnb steps away from the Republic train station and dozens of restaurants and cafes! Hotels are pricey and you don’t get a lot of space for your money. This Airbnb was perfect for traveling with a friend because we had a common space and kitchen area to spread out in.

Montmartre (1 night) – I wish we had more time in this area of Paris! Montemarte was bustling during our one day stay there. We stayed at the Hotel Basss which was perfect for our last night before heading to the airport. I wouldn’t recommend for any longer than 1-2 nights as the space is extremely tight.

Bordeaux (2 nights) – when I say we stayed in the cutest Airbnb I am not exaggerating! This spot was beautifully decorated and designed. Our hosts, Marc & Gwendoline, were so kind and had great suggestions for our short stay in Bordeaux. They also had an adorable little cat who greeted us every morning!

What To Do:

Paris is a huge city with so much to do and see, but being our first trip, we had to get to all of the main tourist attractions like the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triumph, Champs-Elysees, Tuileries garden, Luxembourg Gardens, Palais-Royal, and Notre Dame. We unfortunately did not make it to the Musee d’Orsay, but so many people recommended it over the Louvre. Next time!

Some neighborhoods we spent the most time in include St. Germain, Le Marais, Montmartre, the Latin Quarter, Les Halles, and Place Vendome. Make sure you dedicate some time to just wander around and explore.

We took a day trip to the Versailles and it was 100% worth the train ride (which is only about an hour!). We did a self guided tour of the Palace of Versailles and the gardens. It’s so beautiful and grand! Highly recommend getting there early.

We also spent a day in Reims, located in the Champagne region of France. If you’re looking for a great tasting and tour, I highly recommend Maison Ruinart. The tour was extremely well done! We got to see the cellars, learn about the bottling process, and then finally taste some of their best known champagne classic and vintage bottle. We also stopped at Pommery for a tasting and were a bit disappointed in the champagne house. Veuve Clicquot is another famous champagne house in Reims, but they were closed for a private event during our visit.

Transportation within Paris:

At the beginning of the trip we were strictly using Uber (in our defense it’s a LOT more affordable than in NYC), but towards the end of the trip we mastered the Metro. If you’ve ever taken the NYC subway you can easily handle the Metro. It’s clean, runs very frequently, and has ample signage at every station.

We took the SNFC (or high speed train) to Bordeaux, Reims, and Saint-Emilion. The larger trains run out of Gare Montparnasse which was relatively easy to navigate. We cut one train very, very close and were somehow still able to make it running through the train station with our heavy bags.

Where to Eat:

When I say I ate some of the best food I’ve ever had Im really not exaggerating! French food is incredible and we were able to eat at some pretty amazing spots. Shout out to my travel mate, Eleonora, for finding and making nearly ALL of these reservations!! Our master list below:

Carette – brunch & croissants
Hotel Costes – this didn’t blow us away, but a cool spot for drinks (although a bit pricey) and their famous berries and cream.
Chez Janou – after receiving over 20 recommendations for this restaurant we had to try and get a reservation. We had no luck calling leading up to the trip, but on the last day, went to the restaurant in person and had no issue securing a table! If you decide to go, get the chocolate mousse.
Little Red Door – coolest bar!! This speakeasy has great vibes and even better drinks.
Loup – traditional French brasserie, very affordable.
Breizh Cafe – crapes & galettes
Monsieur Bleu – get the croque monsieur and thank me later! This spot was delish and gets you within eyeshot of the Eiffel Tower.
Cafe Marly – expensive, but you’re paying for the view of the Louvre and it’s totally worth it!
Cafe de Flore – if you’ve ever searched ‘Paris’ on Pinterest then you’ve probably seen at least a dozen photos of Cafe de Flore. We weren’t blown away by the drinks, but hey, you’re going to say you went!
Brasserie Dubillot – great dinner spot with lots of sharing options! Cute interior.
Le Jardin Les Crayeres (Reims) – Another one of my favorite meals! Modern French cuisine with a unique twist of flavors. Within walking distance of many champagne houses. Beautiful outdoor eating space!
L’as du Falafel – arrive hungry! Incredible Israeli food available for casual dining or take away.
Grand Vefour – a historic restaurant in Paris, the meal didnt really hit for me, but Eleonora loved her meal!
Le Syndicat – cocktail bar with unique drinks, good vibes, and good music!
Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond – delicious traditional French cuisine. Very affordable – does not take reservations so arrive early. We waiting in line for about 30-mins which was not too bad.
Le 7 (Bordeaux) – number one meal of the tip! Located on the 7th floor with a panoramic view of Bordeaux. We both did the chef’s tasting menu and it was unreal. Not one bad thing and we licked our plates clean. Also surprisingly affordable for a Michelin star.
Les Sauvages (Bordeaux) – affordable, trendy brunch spot with delicious sweet & savory options.
Books & Coffee (Bordeaux) – more like wine and espresso, but close enough! Located in Bordeaux old town amongst many adorable cafes.
Mitchel’s (Bordeaux) – The best French Onion soup I’ve ever had! Covered in pastry dough and big enough for two people.
Cloitre des Cordeliers (Saint-Emilion) – A former monastery with a beautiful outdoor space. Build your own picnic basket and eat in the gardens. We arrived a bit early, but I could see this being a very fun spot on weekends. Great aperol sprits and right in the heart of Saint-Emilion.
L’Envers du Decor – Wine bar and bistro in the heart of Saint-Emilion. Traditional French cuisine.

Lessons Learned:

This was our first trip to Paris and we learned a lot during our time there. Here were some of our biggest takeaways:

Parisians eat dinner late, like 9pm. We made a lot of reservations for 7:00-7:30pm and would often be the first people there. Of course you can eat when you want, but the crowd doesn’t show until later in the evening.
Make reservations for popular spots. For example, Chez Janou had a 2-hour walk in wait time at 9:30 at night… On top of that, don’t be too late, we got rejected after we were 1 minute later than the grace period. Our fault, but still a bummer.
Coffee to go is not a thing. We planned a lot of early excursions and were not happy humans when we couldn’t get coffee until we sat down for brunch.
Not everything requires a full or half day! We blocked out main tourist attractions for a full or half day depending on their size. We quickly learned that a lot of these spots could be accomplished in just a few hours (or less) like the gardens.
Paris is very walkable, but wear the right shoes! I messed this up big time and destroyed my feet wearing boots on day 2. Dont make the same mistake as me! Wear sneakers, comfortable sandals, or worn in shoes that you know you’ll be comfortable in! Part of the beauty is seeing the side streets and weird routes while walking.
Don’t forget your VAT/Tax refund forms!! If you’re planning to shop, this is critical! Any purchase of 150 euro is eligible for tax back. Most designer stores will do it at checkout, but malls require you to take a second step in getting your tax forms. This is generally a 12% savings so it’s well worth the time. Also, most stores will not honor your purchase after 1-2 days so make sure you do it day of.
If you visit Saint-Emilion, get a driver or do a group tour. We thought it would be adorable to ride bikes, and it was, but not at all practical for seeing multiple winery’s. We were also beyond exhausted by the end of the day.
Visit the Eiffel Tower at different times of day. Mid day vs. golden hour vs. after dark give entirely different perspectives on the tower. I didn’t expect to be such a sucker for it, but it was truly so beautiful to see at all times of day. If you go after dark, bring your own wine or have Euro on hand to purchase from the dozens of people walking around selling wine and beer.
Pack less! You will shop. Don’t end up like me and have to buy a second suitcase to keep your checked bag from being overweight.

Photo Worthy Spots:

For great views of the Eiffel Tower search these locations in maps:
- Passerelle Debilly – bridge just before the tower with the perfect Seine River and tower view. You can also walk down to the riverside for a similar photo moment!
- Rue de l’Universite – this is the equivalent of Washington Street in DUMBO (you know, the Pinterest popular spot with the perfect view of the manhattan bridge). You get up close to the tower and the beautiful Parisian homes frame the tower.
- Trocadero – this was sadly partially under construction during our visit so much of the steps were blocked up. This area is insanely crowded day and night so go at off hours if you’re looking for a clean shot of the tower.
Domaine National du Palais-Royal – you’ve probably seen photos of the black and white columns in the palace courtyard. A garden and art installation, this was a great spot for photos and a stroll through the park.
Luxembourg Gardens – IMO this was more of what I expected of Parisian gardens (compared to Tuileries Garden).
Montmartre – This entire area is pretty photo worthy, but Rue Cortot has beautiful, greenery covered homes.

Packing:

Oh man, I was struggling with what to pack for this trip! I had initially packed a much warmer wardrobe, but after speaking to friend who was currently in Paris she told me it was HOT. She wasn’t lying! It was hot most days.

Pants and a light shirt were perfect for mid day. Adding a duster, blazer or light cardigan was necessary for the early mornings and evenings. Don’t bring heels unless it’s for a special occasion (or you plan to Uber). The cobblestones were not made for heels. I mainly wore sneakers and platform sandals. Bring a belt bag or crossbody that leaves your hands free. Between my phone and camera my hands were always full, a shoulder bag wold have been a pain.

One thing I noticed is that no one was dressed in skimpy clothing or was showing much skin (even in the evenings). I wore a skirt with a high slit and heels one evening and felt like I was standing out in the wrong way. Dont get me wrong, wear WHATEVER you want. This was just my observation!